Built by the Tayrona civilisation around 800CE, La Ciudad Perdida, is accessible only by a 44km round-trip hike through challenging terrain with steep ascents, river crossings and a humid jungle climate; it is 650 years older than Machu Pichu and over twice the size. All that remains are the terraces that the many huts once sat on, so whilst not as visually impressive as its Peruvian counterpart, the serious hike in, combined with its low 200-300 per day visitor limit, means that it has a special magic of its own.

The city was thought to have been abandoned in the late 1500s, around the time of the Spanish conquest when the Tayrona suffered immensely due to diseases, warfare from the Spanish, and displacement. It was rediscovered in 1972 by grave robbers who looted gold and ceramic artifacts, and after their appearance on the black market, the attention of archaeologists was attracted. In 1976, the Colombian government began official excavations and restoration. Eventually in 1982, its historical importance was recognised, and the site was opened to tourists, strictly by guided tours only.

Tourism was disrupted in the 90s and early 2000s due to regional guerrilla activity, until in 2003 paramilitary operations restored peace. Today access is guided by 5 companies: we chose Wiwa Tours, the only indigenous-owned and led operator.

The Wiwa are one of four groups descended from the Tayrona, along with the Kogi, Arhuaco and Kankuamo, all of which still exist today, although the latter have experienced more cultural assimilation. Throughout the adventure, our lead guides Pablo and Jose, supported by Juan, Luis and a younger trainee, shared the fascinating and dramatic history of this stunning area as well as rich cultural insights. We were blessed by the presence of Louis, our interpreter, whose deep understanding of and passion for preserving Wiwa culture and their land, meant that his English translations were enriched by his experience as a non-indigenous (campesino) local.

One of our favourite cultural, practical and cosmovisionary learnings was that of the poporo. The indigenous men of this region are renowned for their unique use of this hollowed-out gourd, which in their tradition serves as a vessel of alchemy and stored wisdom. The gourd is filled with powdered lime derived from seashells collected during their regular journeys to the nearby Caribbean coastline. Throughout the day, the men take lime from their poporo with a stick, and mix it with the coca leaves in their mouth. The lime serves as an alkaloid activator, enhancing the absorption of the coca leaves' active ingredients; the resulting combination reduces the debilitating distractions of hunger and fatigue. Coca is a sacred plant in their culture, mostly gathered by women for the men.

Among indigenous cultures throughout South America, coca leaves are said to have a feminine energy whilst lime from seashells is masculine, due to the ocean’s association with origins, creation and wisdom. As the masculine and feminine elements merge with the man's unique genetic codes in his saliva, an alchemical reaction occurs, and not only does it provide stimulation, but also draws him into a contemplative, meditative state, furthering his spiritual growth and accumulated wisdom.

Finally, once the alchemical reaction between the three parts is complete, the remaining residue is removed from the mouth with the stick (representing the masculine), and applied to the outside of the poporo (representing the feminine). Over time, this alchemical deposit accumulates on the poporo, physically representing the man's cumulative life experience, memories, wisdom and his growing understanding of the masculine and feminine balance. The poporo is thus both a powerful symbol of their cosmovision and a useful daily tool in their lives.

Both men and women consider men to be weaker than women, and as such, they need this stimulant to power them through each day. Women are considered inherently stronger as the bearers and carers of children, and they also work the land, cook and spend any spare time weaving textiles, as much for spiritual and meditative purposes as practical. Women don't use coca because they are strong enough not to need stimulants to fulfill their taxing daily tasks.

We asked our guides about their visions of the future for the area and their fellow Tayrona descendants. Indigenous-led ecotourism initiatives like this trek and numerous other activities in nearby Tayrona National Park and the town of Minca, are hoped to further improve visibility and livelihoods. But it is essential that tourism is managed carefully and set up in a way that visitors easily respect the rich tapestry of people, cultures and environment, leaving with a deep understanding of all three, imprinted in their hearts and minds.

Recent progress in government initiatives has given the indigenous people of this region more representation in local politics and strengthened land rights, which has improved livelihoods and provided hope for reversing the decline in their cultural prevalence.

It was said that whilst the four indigenous groups of the Tayrona wish to benefit from many aspects of the modern world, they are still passionate about retaining much of their traditional cultures and are cautious towards allowing in the many damaging manifestations of modern capitalist society. One such example that Pablo shared is the Wiwa and Kogi's reduced life expectancy today compared to that of the past, which he blames on the incursion of western foods and habits. In the past it was not uncommon for Kogi and Wiwa elders to reach 100 years of age.

We returned back to the village of El Mamey (or Machete as it is also referred to due to its violent past), where the adventure began, with simultaneously contrasting feelings of joyous relief, deepened understanding and sadness to be leaving - a stunningly pristine landscape, inhabited by people still quite removed from the uniformity, stress and often artificial ugliness of the modern world.

In the middle of the trip when I arrived at the Lost City, I had an overwhelming desire to stay there indefinitely and bury my phone (which had been away from connectivity for 2 days). But instead, I reframed these feelings into the purpose of the Indigenous Modernism project, and chose to continue exploring ways in which indigenous and modern world views can work together more harmoniously in the future.

For more info on this and other Wiwa Tours: wiwatour.com/en/

The concept of Indigenous Modernism can take many forms. Caoba is unusual in that as well as having many permaculture and regenerative features, it is situated on ancient sacred indigenous land and still has rock pathways built many years ago. Its creation has even included some involvement of modern day Tayrona in the construction of a traditional hut.

The story of Caoba as we see it today begain in 1999 when marine biologist Eberhard Wedler and his wife discovered the completely deforested land and began the introduction of native and exotic plant and tree species as well as the construction of ponds and small lakes, aided by a river flowing through the land.

The main targeted and visual conservation projects take place on 6 hectares and the remaining 24 hectares were left reforest naturally as a model trial.

Today, visitors can explore the site amongst a diverse range of tree species, dip in the majestic river, meditate, do yoga, visit 3 nearby waterfalls and the nearby organic cacao farm. And if that's not enough, we experienced truly memorable massages with their on-site masseuse as well as an incredibly fascinating and informative plant tour with Eberhard's highly knowledgeable wife Gloria.

We booked for 4 days originally, extended to 6, but really wanted to stay for a month had we been able to! Caoba is a truly inspiring example of what is possible when a vision, passion, a lot of hard work and relentless drive are combined. We'll be back without a doubt.

To see more and go deeper into Caoba: https://en.reservacaoba.com/